There’s no doubt that Pinot Noir, be it in the South African, French, New Zealand, American or any other context, is a grape which makes otherwise sane winemakers do silly things – like try to pin down the unique characteristics of this will-o-the wisp grape.
Hermanuspietersfontein winemaker Wilhelm Pienaar, one of the judges of the recent Pinot Noir tasting held by Events by Celia, spoke both passionately and eloquently about the “titanium tension” and about being able to capture both the concentration and density of the variety without the resultant wine being ponderous, weighty or too muscular. “Too many examples we see on the retail shelves are a bit like a Mugg & Bean muffin, where more of the muffin is outside and above the casing than inside!”
Pinot Noir is a grape and wine style that requires precision and finesse. As Kritzinger pointed out, South African wine makers have no problem with extraction so power and muscularity are a given, but restraint and knowing when to leave a wine alone to express itself is a rare skill. South Africa has a small number of producers which understand this and are prepared to invest the time and effort, along with the proverbial blood, sweat and many tears, in the hope of attaining this level.
The top performers in this tasting reflected serious intent, all succeeding in capturing bright fruit notes of plum and cherry, forest floor and spice, but buffering and bracketing the delicate fruit with judiciously applied oak flavours, adding strength without overwhelming it. The result was succulence, delicacy, pliability and sheer drinking enjoyment.
Panel chair, Cape Wine Master Dr Winnie Bowman, noted the geographical spread of the wines which were deemed the best: Elim, Cederberg, Walker Bay, and Franschhoek respectively for David Nieuwoudt's Ghost Corner Pinot Noir 2023, Driehoek Wines Mieke Pinot Noir 2022, Benguela Cove Pinot Noir 2023, and Haute Cabrière Reserve Pinot Noir 2020.
Just as there is great sympathy for the athletes who place fourth in their respective events at the Olympics, those occupying the "close but no cigar" section also reflect the diversity of terroir, with Ceres Plateau, Elgin, Overberg, and Hemel-en-Aarde being mentioned.
Just as there are positives, so there are negatives. Enthusiastic use of oak – be it new barrels or staves on the examples intended for mass market appeal – remains something of a problem. "When it comes to Pinot Noir," Dr Bowman said, "less truly is more!"
Medalists are listed below in alphabetical order.
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